Information about Spinning (textiles)

Spinning is the process of creating yarn (or thread, rope, cable) from various raw fiber materials.

Process

In spinning, separate fibers are twisted together to bind them into a long, stronger yarn. Characteristics of the yarn vary based on the material used, fiber length and alignment, quantity of fiber used and degree of twist.

Twist and ply

The direction in which the yarn is spun is called twist. Yarns are characterized as Z-twist or S-twist according to the direction of spinning (see diagram). Tightness of twist is measured in TPI (twists per inch or turns per inch)^[1]

Two or more spun yarns may be twisted together or plied to form a thicker yarn. Generally, handspun single plies are spun with a Z-twist, and plying is done with an S-twist.^[2]

Plying methods

Yarns can be made of two, three, four, or more plies, or may be used as singles without plying. During plying, singles are fed off a Lazy Kate, a device used to hold the singles bobbins steady while plying. Two-ply yarn can also be plied from both ends of one long strand of singles using Andean plying, in which the single is first wound around one hand in a specific manner that allows unwinding both ends at once without tangling. Navajo plying is another method of producing a three-ply yarn, in which one strand of singles is looped around itself in a manner similar to crochet and the resulting three parallel strands twisted together. This method is often used to keep colors together on singles dyed in sequential colors. Cabled yarns are usually four-ply yarns made by plying two strands of two-ply yarn together in the direction opposite to the plying direction for the two-ply yarns.

Handspinning wool

A tightly spun wool yarn with no air in it is called worsted; it is handspun from a roving or combed top, and the fibers all lie in the same direction as the yarn. A woolen yarn, in contrast, is handspun from a rolag, where the fibers are not as strictly aligned to the yarn created. The woolen yarn thus captures much more air, and makes for a softer and generally bulkier yarn. A common misconception is wool spun from rolags may not be as strong, but the strength of a yarn is actually based on the length of hair fiber and the degree of twist. When working with shorter hairs, such as llama or angora rabbit, the spinner may choose to integrate longer fibers, such as mohair, to prevent yarn breakage. Wool may be spun before or after washing, although excessive amounts of lanolin may make spinning difficult, especially when using a drop-spindle. Over-washing prior to spinning may cause felting, making carding difficult and often leading to unusable wool fiber. Often a spinner will spin using varying techniques for hand-carded and rolag based yarns, and thus make a semi-worsted yarn.^[3] Wool can be dyed at any time, but is often dyed before carding due to convenience. A common method to dye wool, inexpensively, is to boil wool in vinegar water with Kool-Aid or food dye.

History

The earliest spinning probably involved simply twisting the fibers in the hand. Later a stick, called a spindle, was used to add the twist and hold the twisted fiber. Usually a whorl or weight stabilizes the spindle. The spindle is spun and twists the fiber until it becomes yarn. The spindle may be suspended or supported. Later the spinning wheel was developed which allowed continuous and faster yarn production. Spinning wheels may be foot, hand or electrically powered. The hand-turned spinning wheel called a charkha was prevalent in India and was used by Gandhi and his followers.

Modern powered spinning, originally done by water or steam power but now done by electricity, is vastly faster than hand-spinning. New techniques including Open End spinning or rotor spinning can produce yarns at rates in excess of 40 meters per second per spinning head.

Hobby or small scale artisan spinners spin their own yarn to control specific yarn qualities and produce yarn that is not widely available commercially, but can be found online and in many local yarn stores. Handspinners also may spin for self-sufficiency, a sense of accomplishment, or a sense of connection to history and the land. In addition, they may take up spinning for its meditative qualities.

Contemporary hand spinning

Within the recent past, many new spinners have joined into this ancient process, innovating the craft and creating new techniques. From using many new applications of dyeing before spinning, to mixing in random elements (Christmas Garland, eccentric beads, money, etc.) that would not be in a traditional yarn, to creating new techniques like coiling^[4], this craft is constantly evolving and shifting.

Materials

Yarn can be made from a wide variety of materials:

• Plant fibers: cotton, flax (to produce linen), bamboo, ramie, hemp, nettle, raffia, yucca, coconut husk, banana trees, and soy
• Animal fibers: wool, goat (angora, or cashmere goat), rabbit (angora), llama, alpaca, dog, cat, camel, yak, qiviut (from Musk Ox), and silk
• Synthetic fibers fibers: nylon, rayon (derived from wood pulp), acetate, polyester, tencel (derived from wood pulp), and ingeo (derived from corn)
• Mineral fibers: asbestos

In mythology

In Greek mythology, Clotho spins the thread of life from her distaff onto her spindle.

See also

• Cotton mill
• Crochet
• Knitting
• Loom
• Spinning jenny
• Weaving
• Spinning wheel
• Spindle (textiles)

Notes

Resources

Books

• Amos, Alden (2001). The Alden Amos Big Book of Handspinning, Loveland, Colorado: Interweave Press.
• Boeger, Alexis (2005). Handspun Revolution, Pluckyfluff.
• Ross, Mabel (1987). Essentials of Handspinning, Robin and Russ Handweavers.
• Simmons, Paula (1982). Spinning for Softness and Speed, Seattle: Madrona.

Instructional Sites

• A complete spinning website - Learn about Blow room,carding,spinning, Fiber testing, Textile calculations etc
• Hampshire Spinning Guild - glossary of spinning terms, and pictures
• Joy of Hand Spinning - video instruction
• Spin-Off Magazine Spinning Basics - A list of PDF articles from the magazine on various spinning techniques.
• Navajo 3-ply Tutorial - plying video instruction
• Drop Spinning Instructions - step by step from carding to troubleshooting

External links

• Spinning Guilds Directory - An international list of spinning guilds
• Spinning Links A list of spinning links, including blogs
• Yarn Museum - Online gallery promoting handspun yarn.

Wool Festivals

• NY State Sheep & Wool Festival - New York State Sheep & Wool Festival
• Maryland Sheep & Wool Festival - Maryland Sheep & Wool Festival; America's largest, with over 60,000 people in attendance each year.

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