Information about Kimono

The kimono (着物, kimono literally "something worn")^[1] is the national costume of Japan. Originally the word "kimono" referred to all types of clothing, but it has come to mean specifically the full-length traditional garment worn by women, men, and children.

Kimonos are T-shaped, straight-lined robes that fall to the ankle, with collars and wide, full-length sleeves. Traditionally, unmarried women wore a style of kimono called furisode,^[2] which have floor-length sleeves, on special occasions.

Kimonos are wrapped around the body, always with the left side over the right (except when dressing the dead for burial)^[3] and secured by a wide belt called an obi, which is tied at the back. Kimonos are generally worn with traditional footwear (especially geta, thonged wood-platform footwear; and zori, a type of thong-like footwear) and split-toe socks (tabi).^[3]

Today, kimonos are most often worn by women, and on special occasions. A few older women and even fewer men still wear kimonos on a daily basis. Men wear kimonos most often at weddings, tea ceremonies, and other very special or very formal occasions. Kimonos are also worn by both men and women in certain sports, such as kendo. Professional sumo wrestlers are often seen in kimonos because they are required to wear traditional Japanese dress whenever appearing in public.

Kimono hobbyists in Japan can take courses on how to put on and wear kimonos. Classes cover selecting seasonally and event-appropriate patterns and fabrics, matching the kimono undergarments and accessories to the kimono, layering the undergarments according to subtle meanings, selecting and tying obi, and other topics. There are also clubs devoted to kimono culture, such as Kimono de Ginza.

History

The earliest kimono were heavily influenced by traditional Chinese clothing called hanfu through extensive cultural adoptions between China and Japan, as early as the fifth century ce^[3]. It was during the 8th century, however, when Chinese fashions came into style among the Japanese, and the overlapping collar became particularly a women's fashion. ^[3]. During Japan's Heian period (794–1192 ce), the kimono became increaslingly stylized, though one still wore a half-apron, called a mo, over it ^[3]. During the Muromachi age (1392-1573), the Kosode, a single kimono formerly considered underwear, began to be worn without the hakama pants over it, and thus began to be held closed by an obi "belt" ^[3]. During the Edo period, the sleeves began to grow in length, especially among unmarried women, and the Obi became wider, with various styles of tying coming into fashion ^[3]. Since then, the basic shape of both men’s and women’s kimono has remained essentially unchanged ^[3].

Textiles

Kimono for men are available in various sizes, but kimono for women are typically of similar size, and are adjusted for various body sizes by tucking and folding. An ideally-tailored kimono has sleeves that end at the wrist when the arms are lowered. A man's kimono should fall approximately to the ankle without tucking. A woman's kimono is longer to allow for the ohashori, the tuck that can be seen under the obi. Very tall or heavy people, such as sumo wrestlers, must have kimono custom-made; however, due to the fact that the entire bolt remains in the finished garment without cutting, the kimono can be easily retailored to fit a different person^[3].

Kimono are made from a single bolt of fabric called a tan. Bolts come in standard dimensions of about 14 inches wide and 12.5 yards (enough for one adult kimono)^[3], and the entire fabric is used to make the kimono. The finished kimono consists of four main strips of fabric: two panels covering the body and two panels forming the sleeves, with additional smaller strips forming the narrow front panel and collar^[3]. In the past, the kimono was often taken apart for washing as separate panels, and re-sewn by hand ^[3].

Traditional kimono are sewn by hand, and their fabrics are also frequently hand made and hand decorated. Various techniques such as yūzen dye resist are used for applying decoration and patterns to the base cloth. Repeating patterns that cover a large area of a kimono are traditionally done with the yūzen resist technique and a stencil. Over time there have been many variations in color, fabric and style, as well as accessories such as the obi.

Kimono and obis are traditionally made of silk, silk brocade, silk crepes (such as chirimen) and satin weaves (such as rinzu). Modern kimono are also widely available in less-expensive easy-care fabrics such as rayon, cotton sateen, cotton, polyester and other synthetic fibers. Silk is still considered the ideal fabric, however, and is a must for formal occasions.



Customarily, woven patterns and dyed repeat patterns are considered informal; Formal kimono have free-style designs dyed over the whole surface or along the hem^[3]. During the Heian period, kimono were worn with up to a dozen or more colorful contrasting layers, with each combination of colors being a named pattern^[3]. Today, the kimono is normally worn with a single layer on top of a slip style undergarment. The pattern of the kimono can also determine in what season it should be worn. For example, a pattern with butterflies or cherry blossoms would be worn in spring. Watery designs are common during the summer. A popular autumn motif is the russet leaf of the Japanese maple; for winter, designs may include bamboo, pine trees and ume blossoms.

Old kimono are often recycled in various ways: altered to make haori, hiyoku, or kimono for children, used to patch similar kimono, used for making handbags and similar kimono accessories, and used to make covers, bags or cases for various implements, especially for sweet-picks used in tea ceremonies. Kimono with damage below the waistline can also be worn under hakama to hide the damage. Historically, skilled craftsmen laboriously picked the silk thread from old kimono and rewove it into a new textile in the width of a heko obi for men's kimono, using a recycling weaving method called saki-ori.

Parts of a woman's kimono

Doura

upper lining

Eri

collar

Fuki

hem guard

Furi

sleeve below the armhole

Maemigoro

front main panel

Miyatsukuchi

opening under the sleeve

Okumi

front inside panel

Sode^[3]

sleeve

Sodeguchi

sleeve opening

Sodetsuke: kimono armhole

Susomawashi

lower lining

Tamoto

sleeve pouch

Tomoeri: over collar

Uraeri

inner collar

Ushiromigoro

back main section

Cost

Kimonos can be expensive. A woman's kimono may easily exceed US$10,000;^[4] a complete kimono outfit, with kimono, undergarments, obi, ties, socks, sandals and accessories, can exceed US$20,000. A single obi may cost several thousand dollars. However, most kimonos owned by kimono hobbyists or by practitioners of traditional arts are far less expensive. Enterprising people make their own kimonos and undergarments by following a standard pattern, or by recycling older kimonos. Cheaper and machine-made fabrics can substitute for the traditional hand-dyed silk. There is also a thriving business in Japan for second-hand kimonos, which can cost as little as ¥500. Women's obis, however, mostly remain an expensive item. Although simple patterned or plain colored ones can cost as low as ¥1,500, even a used obi can cost hundreds of dollars, and experienced craftsmanship is required to make them. Men's obis, even those made from silk, tend to be much less expensive, because they are narrower, shorter and less decorative than those worn by women.

Styles

Kimonos range from extremely formal to casual. The level of formality of women's kimonos is determined mostly by the pattern fabric, and color. Young women's kimonos have longer sleeves,signifying their unmarried status, and tend to be more elaborate than similarly formal older women's kimonos^[3]. Men's kimonos are usually one basic shape and are mainly worn in subdued colors. Formality is also determined by the type and color of accessories, the fabric, and the number or absence of kamon (family crests), with five crests signifying extreme formality^[3]. Silk is the most desirable, and most formal, fabric. Kimonos made of fabrics such as cotton and polyester generally reflect a more casual style.

Women's kimonos

Many modern Japanese women lack the skill to put on a kimono unaided: the typical woman's kimono consists of twelve or more separate pieces that are worn, matched and secured in prescribed ways, and the assistance of licensed professional kimono dressers may be required. Called upon mostly for special occasions, kimono dressers both work out of hair salons and make house calls.

Choosing an appropriate type of kimono requires knowledge of the garment's symbolism and subtle social messages, reflecting the woman's age, marital status, and the level of formality of the occasion.

Kurotomesode

(黒留袖): a black kimono patterned only below the waistline, kurotomesode are the most formal kimonos for married women. They are often worn by the mothers of the bride and groom at weddings. Kurotomesode usually have five kamon printed on the sleeves, chest and back of the kimono.

Furisode

(振袖): furisode literally translates as swinging sleeves—the sleeves of furisode average between 39 and 42 inches in length. Furisode are the most formal kimonos for unmarried women, with patterns that cover the entire garment. They are usually worn at coming-of-age ceremonies (seijin shiki) and by unmarried female relatives of the bride at weddings and wedding receptions.

Irotomesode

(色留袖): single-color kimonos, patterned only below the waistline. Irotomesode are slightly less formal than kurotomesode, and are worn by married women, usually close relatives of the bride and groom at weddings. An irotomesode may have three or five kamon.

Hōmongi

(訪問着): literally translates as visiting wear. Characterized by patterns that flow over the shoulders, seams and sleeves, hōmongi rank slightly higher than their close relative, the tsukesage. Hōmongi may be worn by both married and unmarried women; often friends of the bride will wear hōmongi at weddings and receptions. They may also be worn to formal parties.

Tsukesage

(付け下げ): has more modest patterns that cover a smaller area—-mainly below the waist-—than the more formal hōmongi. They may also be worn by married women.

Iromuji

(色無地): single-colored kimonos that may be worn by married and unmarried women. They are mainly worn to tea ceremonies. The dyed silk may be figured (rinzu, similar to jacquard), but has no differently colored patterns.

Komon

(小紋): "fine pattern". Kimonos with a small, repeated pattern throughout the garment. This style is more casual and may be worn around town, or dressed up with a formal obi for a restaurant. Both married and unmarried women may wear komon.

'Edo Komon

(江戸小紋): is a type of komon characterized by tiny dots arranged in dense patterns that form larger designs. The Edo komon dyeing technique originated with the samurai class during the Edo period. A kimono with this type of pattern is of the same formality as an iromuji, and when decorated with kamon, may be worn as visiting wear (equivalent to a tsukesage or hōmongi).

Men's kimonos

In contrast to women's kimonos, men's kimono outfits are far simpler, typically consisting of a maximum of five pieces, not including footwear.

Men's kimonos have sleeves which are attached to the body of the kimono with no more than a few inches unattached at the bottom, unlike the women's style of very deep sleeves mostly unattached from the body of the kimono. Men's sleeves are less deep than women's kimono sleeves to accommodate the obi around the waist beneath them, whereas on a woman's kimono, the long, unattached bottom of the sleeve can hang over the obi without getting in the way.

In the modern era, the principal distinctions between men's kimonos are in the fabric. The typical kimono has a subdued, dark color; black, dark blues, greens, and browns are common. Fabrics are usually matte. Some have a subtle pattern, and textured fabrics are common in more casual kimonos. More casual kimonos may be made in slightly brighter colors, such as lighter purples, greens and blues. Sumo wrestlers have occasionally been known to wear quite bright colors such as fuchsia.

The most formal style of kimono is plain black with five kamon on the chest, shoulders and back. Slightly less formal is the three-kamon kimono. These are usually paired with white undergarments and accessories.

Almost any kimono outfit can be made more formal by adding hakama and haori (see below).

Kimono accessories and related garments

Nagajuban

(長襦袢, or simply juban) are kimono-shaped robes worn by both men and women beneath the main outer garment. Since silk kimonos are delicate and difficult to clean, the nagajuban helps to keep the outer kimono clean by preventing contact with the wearer's skin. Only the collar edge of the nagajuban shows from beneath the outer kimono. Many nagajuban have removable collars, to allow them to be changed to match the outer garment, and to be easily washed without washing the entire garment. While the most formal type of nagajuban are white, they are often as beautifully ornate and patterned as the outer kimono. Since men's kimonos are usually fairly subdued in pattern and color, and the nagajuban allows for discreetly wearing very striking designs and colors.

Hadajuban

(肌襦袢) are thin garments similar to undershirts. They are worn by women under the nagajuban.

Susoyoke

(裾除け) is a thin petticoat-like garment worn by women under the nagajuban. Sometimes the susoyoke and hadajuban are combined into a one-piece garment.

Geta

(下駄) are wooden sandals worn by men and women with yukata. One unique style is worn solely by geisha.

Hakama

(袴) is a divided or undivided skirt which resembles a wide pair of pants, traditionally worn by men but now also by women in less formal outfits, and is also worn in certain martial arts such as aikido. A hakama typically has pleats, a koshiita (a stiff or padded part in the lower back of the wearer), and himo (long lengths of fabric tied around the waist over the obi, described below). Hakama are worn in several budo arts such as aikido, kendo, iaidō and naginata. Hakama are also worn by women at college graduation ceremonies. They can range from very formal to visiting wear, depending on the pattern.

Haori

(羽織) is a hip- or thigh-length kimono coat which adds formality. Haori were originally reserved for men, until fashions changed at the end of the Meiji period. They are now worn by both men and women, though women's kimono jackets tend to be longer.

Haori-himo

(羽織紐) is a tasseled, woven string fastener for the haori. The most formal color is white.

Hiyoku

(ひよく) is a type of under-kimono, historically worn by women beneath the kimono. Today they are only worn on formal occasions such as weddings and other important social events.

Kanzashi

(簪) are hair ornaments worn by women in the coiffured hair style that often accompanies kimonos. These may take the form of silk flowers, wooden combs, and jade hairpins.

Obi

(帯) An obi is a sash worn with kimonos by both men and women.

Obi-ita

(帯板) is a thin, fabric-covered board placed under the obi by women to keep its shape. It is also called mae-ita.

Datejime

(伊達締め) is a thin, stiff sash worn under the obi to keep its shape.

Koshi himo

(腰紐) are thin sashes tied to keep the kimono in place while getting dressed.

Tabi

(足袋) are ankle-high, divided-toe socks usually worn with zori. They also come in a boot form.

Waraji

(草鞋) are straw rope sandals which are mostly worn by monks.

Yukata

(浴衣) is an informal unlined summer kimono usually made of cotton, linen, or hemp. Yukata are most often worn to outdoor festivals, by men and women of all ages. They are also worn at onsen (hot spring) resorts, where they are often provided for the guests in the resort's own pattern.

Zōri

(草履) are cloth, leather or grass-woven sandals. Zori may be highly decorated with intricate stitching or with no decoration. They are worn by both men and women. Grass woven zori with white straps, called hanao, are the most formal for men. They are similar in design to flip-flops.

Care of kimonos

In the past, a kimono would often be entirely taken apart for washing, and then re-sewn for wearing^[3]. Modern fabrics and cleaning methods have been developed that eliminate this need, although the traditional washing of kimonos is still practiced. A new custom-made kimono will be delivered to the customer with long, loose basting stitches placed around the outside edges. These stitches are sometimes replaced for storage. They help to prevent bunching, folding and wrinkling, and keep the kimono's layers in alignment.

Like many other traditional Japanese garments, there are specific ways to fold kimonos. These methods help to preserve the garment and to keep it from creasing when stored. Kimonos are often stored wrapped in paper.

Kimonos need to be aired out at least seasonally and before and after each time they are worn. Many people prefer to have their kimonos dry cleaned, although this can be extremely expensive, and may be impossible for certain fabrics or dyes.

References

External links

• The Canadian Museum of Civilization - Landscape Kimonos of Itchiku Kubota
• Tokyo National Museum Look for "textiles" under "decorative arts".
• Kyoto National Museum: Textiles
• The Costume Museum: Costume History in Japan
• Kimono Fraise; includes directions on how to put on a kimono
• What Japan Thinks; Kimono wearing and ownership A translation of a survey into contemporary views on kimonos
• Traditional Crafts of Japan: Follow the links titled Weaving, Dyeing, Other Fiber Crafts, Craft Materials
• Kimono from the V&A Collection. Asia. Victoria and Albert Museum. Retrieved on 2007-07-13.
• Fashioning Kimono: Dress in early 20th century Japan. Asia. Victoria and Albert Museum. Retrieved on 2007-06-16.