Information about 1880s In Fashion
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Paris fashion, 1883-85.
Women's fashion
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The fashionable corseted figure of 1883. Hair is swept up to the top of the head, and the front hair is frizzled over the forehead.
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Princess-line walking dress (left) and hunting costume (right) from ''La Mode Illstrée, 1880.
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Front and back views of a traveling coat, c. 1880-81
Overview
As in the previous decade, emphasis remained on the back of the skirt, with fullness gradually rising from behind the knees to just below the waist. The fullness over the buttocks was balanced by a fuller, lower bosom, achieved by rigid corseting, creating an S-shaped silhouette.Skirts were looped, draped, or tied up in various ways, and worn over matching or contrasting underskirts. The polonaise was a revival style based on a fashion of the 1780s, with a fitted, cutaway overdress caught up and draped over an underskirt. Long, jacket-like fitted bodices called basques were also popular for daywear.
Evening gowns were sleeveless and low-necked (except for matrons), and were worn with long over the elbow or shoulder length gloves of fine kid leather or suede.
Choker necklaces and jewelled collars were fashionable under the influence of Alexandra, Princess of Wales, who wore this fashion to disguise a scar on her neck.
Underwear
The bustle returned to fashion and reached its greatest proportions ca. 1886-1888, extending almost straight out from the back waist to support a profusion of drapery, frills, swags, and ribbons. The fashionable corset created a low, full bust with little separation of the breasts.The usual undergarment was a combination, a camisole with attached knee- or calf-length drawers, worn under the corset, bustle, and petticoat. Woolen combinations were recommended for health, especially when engaging in fashionable sports such as riding or tennis.
Outerwear
Riding habits had become a "uniform" of matching jacket and skirt worn with a high-collared shirt or chemisette, with a top hat and veil. They were worn without bustles, but the cut of the jacket followed the silhouette of the day.In contrast, hunting costumes were far more fashionably styled, with draped ankle-length skirts worn with boots or gaiters.
Tailored costumes consisting of a long jacket and skirt were worn for travel or walking; these were worn with the bustle and a small hat or bonnet. Travelers wore long coats like dusters to protect their clothes from dirt, rain, and soot.
Aesthetic dress
Artistic or Aesthetic dress remained an undercurrent in Bohemian circles throughout the 1880s. In reaction to the heavy drapery and rigid corseting of mainstream Paris fashion, aesthetic dress focused on beautiful fabrics made up simply, sometimes loosely fitted or with a belt at the waist. Aesthetic ideas influenced the tea gown, a frothy confection increasingly worn in the home, even to receive visitors.Hairstyles and headgear
Hair was pulled back at the sides and worn in a low knot or cluster of ringlets; later hair was swept up to the top of the head. Fringe or bangs remained fashionable throughout the decade, usually curled or frizzled over the forehead.Bonnets resembled hats except for their ribbons tied under the chin; both had curvy brims.
Style gallery 1880-1884
) 1 - 1880 | ) 2 - 1881 | ) 3 - 1882 | ) 4 - 1882 |
) 5 - 1882 | ) 6 - 1883 | ) 7 - 1883 | ) 8 - 1884 |
- Leona Barel of New Orleans wears a long, fitted jacket with three-quarter-length striped sleeves over a matching striped skirt. A nosegay of flowers is pinned at her waist, c.1880.
- A rather impracticable-looking tennis costume.
- Summer dresses of 1882 show Aesthetic influence in the small-scale floral prints and high neckbands with white ruffles at neck and wrist. The straw hat has a high front brim to frame the fashionable frizzled hair.
- August 1882 fashion plate shows the return of the bustle: the tight overdress is looped up behind.
- Whistler's Portrait of Lady Meux (1881-1882) shows the fashionable full bosom.
- Misses' Polonaise has fitted bodice with a low point in front. The front of the skirt is cutaway and the back is looped up after the fashion of 1780s. It is shown over a gored skirt with ruffles. Throughout the century, younger teenage girls ("misses" in fashion plates) wore their skirts just above their ankles.
- Bathing dresses of 1883 show fashionable rear fullness.
- The Empress of Austria in a riding habit, 1884. Her habit has the fashionable corseted silhouette, with a simpler skirt suited for riding, tall shirt collar, and top hat.
Style gallery 1885-1889
) 1 - c. 1885 | ) 2 - 1885 | ) 3 - 1886 | ) 4 - 1887 |
) 5 - 1887 | ) 5 - 1888 | ) 7 - 1888 | ) 8 - 1889 |
- Mid-1880s fashion plate shows the "back shelf" bustle. The gown is draped up at both sides and worn over a matching underskirt.
- Madame Paul Poirson wears the fashionable neckline of mid-decade, wide at the bust and narrower at the shoulder. Flowers trim her bodice, hair, and draped skirt, 1885.
- Outfit which is both strongly influenced by menswear and bustled. Hair is upswept, with bangs. Elbow-length gloves meet the shorter sleeves.
- Hairstyle of 1887 is swept up into a knot, with the front hair curled and frizzled over the forehead.
- Fashions from La Mode Illustrée show gowns made of contrasting fabrics worn with "shelf" bustles and opera-length gloves, 1887.
- Fashions of 1888 feature full busts, large "shelf" bustles, and wide shoulders. Gloves reach the elbow or slightly above.
- Eleanora Iselin wears a high-necked black satin costume trimmed with beaded passementerie, 1888.
- Vicomtesse De Montmorand wears an evening gown fastened in back, without a bustle, signalling the styles of the next decade. Her hair is twisted into a small knot on top of her head and is worn with a curly fringe or bangs, 1889.
Atypical high-fashion
) 1 - second half of decade | ) 2 - 1887 |
- The 1880s idea of practical women's attire is seen in this poster showing Annie Oakley wearing shorter skirts and a complete lack of a bustle (acceptable for poorer rural frontier women and/or paid public performers).
- Japanese print showing two young ladies dressed according to the latest Western fashions of time — except that the colors and designs of the fabrics are to Japanese tastes.
Men's fashion
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Vanity Fair sketch of John Delacouur shows the formal evening dress of 1885.
Coats, jackets, and trousers
Three piece suits consisting of a sack coat with matching waistcoat (U.S. vest) and trousers (called in the UK a "lounge suit") continued as an informal alternative to the contrasting frock coat, waistcoat and trousers.The cutaway morning coat was still worn for formal day occasions in Europe and major cities elsewhere, with a dress shirt and an ascot tie. The most formal evening dress remained a dark tail coat and trousers with a dark waistcoat. Evening wear was worn with a white bow tie and a shirt with a winged collar.
In mid-decade, a more relaxed formal coat appeared: the dinner jacket or tuxedo, which featured a shawl collar with silk or satin facings, and one or two buttons. Dinner jackets were appropriate when "dressing for dinner" at home or at a men's club.
The Norfolk jacket was popular for shooting and rugged outdoor pursuits. It was made of sturdy tweed or similar fabric and featured paired box pleats over the chest and back, with a fabric belt.
Full-length trousers were worn for most occasions; tweed or woollen breeches were worn for hunting and other outdoor pursuits.
Knee-length topcoats, often with contrasting velvet or fur collars, and calf-length overcoats were worn in winter.
Shirts and neckties
Shirt collars were turned over or pressed into "wings". Dress shirts had stiff fronts, sometimes decorated with shirt studs, and buttoned up the back.The usual necktie was the four-in-hand and or the newly fashionable Ascot tie, made up as a neckband with wide wings attached and worn with a stickpin.
Narrow ribbon ties were tied in a bow, and white bowtie was correct with formal evening wear.
Accessories
As in the 1870s, top hats remained a requirement for upper class formal wear; bowlers and soft felt hats in a variety of shapes were worn for more casual occasions, and flat straw boaters were worn for yachting and other nautical pastimes.Shoes of the 1880s had higher heels and a narrow toe.
Style gallery
) 1 - c.1880 | _-_1880_ca._-_by_Paul_Berthier_(1879-1916).jpg')) 2 - c.1880 | ) 3 - 1881 | ) 4 - 1881 |
) 5 - 1882 | ) 6 - After 1882 |
- British traveler wears a grey frock coat and matching trousers with a grey top hat, 1880. The coat has two covered buttons at the back waist.
- Painter John Singer Sargent wears a formally pleated Ascot tie. His shirt collar has softly curled wings, c. 1880.
- Hermann von Helmholtz wears a dark coat, waistcoat, and trousers with a stiff-fronted and stiff-collared shirt, German, 1881.
- Theodor Mommsen wears a narrow necktie tied in a bow with his dark suit, German, 1881.
- Vanity Fair sketch of agricultural scientist John Bennet Lawes portrays him in walking clothes. His coat with a waist seam and skirts cutaway in a smooth curve is worn with matching trousers and collared waistcoat, 1882.
- George Etiene Cartier wears a dark frock coat, a decorative double-breasted waistcoat and, and a narrow bow tie. Montreal, after 1882.
Children's fashion
Young girls wore dresses with round collars and sashes. Fashionable dresses had dropped waists. Pinafores were worn for work and play. When going out, especially in the winter, girls wore lots of layers to keep warm. A warm coat was worn with kid leather gloves. A muff hand warmer was worn over the gloves, so when the girl removed her hands her gloves would keep them warm. Just like ladies, all upper-class Victorian girls wore gloves when going out. A hat or bonnet was worn as well, along with long, knee-length button-up boots or shorter boots with gaitors to give the appearance of wearing long boots.Nearly all Victorian girls had long hair, often past waist-length. Hair was kept straight with bangs or curled into ringlets. An upper-class girl would have worn a fringe, since she had a nanny who could look after her hair and keep it neat and tidy.
Older boys wore knee-length breeches and jackets with round-collared shirts.
) France, 1881 | ) 1882 | ) 1882 | ) Paris, 1883 |
) France, 1885 | ) Bustled fashions for girls, 1886 | ) 1887 | ) Russia, 1888 |
See also
References
- Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen's Dresses and Their Construction C.1860-1940, Wace 1966, Macmillan 1972. Revised metric edition, Drama Books 1977. ISBN 0-89676-027-8
- Ashelford, Jane: The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500-1914, Abrams, 1996. ISBN 0-8109-6317-5
- Black, J. Anderson and Madge Garland: A History of Fashion, Morrow, 1975. ISBN 0-688-02893-4
- Nunn, Joan: Fashion in Costume, 1200-2000, 2nd edition, A & C Black (Publishers) Ltd; Chicago: New Amsterdam Books, 2000. (Excerpts online at The Victorian Web)
- Payne, Blanche: History of Costume from the Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century, Harper & Row, 1965. No ISBN for this edition; ASIN B0006BMNFS
External links
- 1880s Fashion
- Plates from Peterson's Magazine - 1883
- From Reforming Fashion, 1850-1914: Politics, Health, and Art, Ohio State University :
- Olive wool tea gown, 1882
- Bustle, corset and combination, 1884-1890
- Navy wool tea gown c. 1889
- What Victorians Wore: An Overview of Victorian Costume
History of fashion | ||
|---|---|---|
| Medieval | Byzantine Early Medieval Anglo-Saxon 12th century 13th century 14th century | ) |
| Renaissance and Reformation | 15th century 1500-1550 1550-1600 1600-1650 1650-1700 | |
| Enlightenment | 1700-1750 1750-1795 1795-1820 | |
| Victorian | 1820s 1830s 1840s 1850s 1860s 1870s 1880s 1890s | |
| Edwardian | 1900s 1910s | |
| Modern | 1920s 1930-1945 | |
| Postwar and Cold War | 1945-1960 1960s 1970s 1980s | |
| Contemporary | 1990s 2000s | |
Europe is one of the seven traditional continents of the Earth. Physically and geologically, Europe is the westernmost peninsula of Eurasia, west of Asia. Europe is bounded to the north by the Arctic Ocean, to the west by the Atlantic Ocean, to the south by the Mediterranean Sea,
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A bustle is a type of framework used to expand the fullness or support the drapery of the back of a woman's dress, occurring predominantly between the mid- to late 1800s. Bustles were worn under the skirt in the back, just below the waist, to keep the skirt from dragging.
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1870s fashion in European and European-influenced clothing is characterized by a gradual return to a narrow silhouette after the full-skirted fashions of the 1850s and 1860s.
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corset is a garment worn to mold and shape the torso into a desired shape for aesthetic or medical purposes (either for the duration of wearing it, or with a more lasting effect).
Both men and women are known to wear corsets.
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Both men and women are known to wear corsets.
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During the middle and late Victorian period, various reformers proposed, designed, and wore clothing supposedly more rational and comfortable than the fashions of the time. This was known as the dress reform or rational dress movement.
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18th century - 19th century - 20th century
1850s 1860s 1870s - 1880s - 1890s 1900s 1910s
1878 1879 1880 - 1881 - 1882 1883 1884
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Subjects: Archaeology - Architecture -
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1850s 1860s 1870s - 1880s - 1890s 1900s 1910s
1878 1879 1880 - 1881 - 1882 1883 1884
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Subjects: Archaeology - Architecture -
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polonaise (originally robe à la Polonaise) is a woman's garment of the later 1770s and 1780s or a similar revival style of the 1880s, consisting of a gown with a fitted bodice and cutaway, draped and poofed overskirt, worn over an underskirt or petticoat.
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A basque is an item of women's historical apparel. The term, of French origin, can mean either a long corset or jacket characterised by a close, contoured fit and extending past the waistline over the hips.
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A choker is a tight-fitting necklace, worn high on the neck. This type of jewelry can consist of one or more bands circling the neck. Chokers can be made of a variety of materials, including velvet, beads, metal and leather.
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necklace is an article of clothing or jewelry; which is worn around the neck. Necklaces are frequently formed from a metal chain; often attached to a locket or pendant. Necklaces can also be manufactured with cloth, and they sometimes contain rocks (particularly gems), wood, and/or
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collar is an ornament for the neck.
Collar is an older word for necklace, and is usually reserved today for a necklace that lies flat to the body rather than hanging freely.
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Collar is an older word for necklace, and is usually reserved today for a necklace that lies flat to the body rather than hanging freely.
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Queen Alexandra (Alexandra Carolina Marie Charlotte Louise Julia; 1 December 1844 – 20 November 1925) was Queen Consort to Edward VII of the United Kingdom and thus Empress of India during her husband's reign.
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A bustle is a type of framework used to expand the fullness or support the drapery of the back of a woman's dress, occurring predominantly between the mid- to late 1800s. Bustles were worn under the skirt in the back, just below the waist, to keep the skirt from dragging.
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Undergarments, also called "underwear", "underpants," "lingerie", or "panties" (undergarments for women), or sometimes "intimate clothing", and "pants" or "knickers" in British English, are clothes worn next to the skin, usually under other clothes.
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A camisole or cami is a woman's undergarment which covers the top part of the body. It is sleeveless and tight fitting in contrast to a loose-fitting chemise. Camisole is sometimes worn cropped allowing midriff exposure, but often covers the entire torso.
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riding habit is women's clothing for horseback riding.
Since the mid-17th century, a formal habit for riding sidesaddle usually consisted of:
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Since the mid-17th century, a formal habit for riding sidesaddle usually consisted of:
- A tailored jacket with a long skirt (sometimes called a petticoat) to match
- A tailored shirt or chemisette
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Chemisette (from French, "little chemise") is an article of women's clothing worn to fill in the front and neckline of any garment. Chemisettes give the appearance of a blouse or shirt worn under the outer garment without adding bulk at the waist or upper arm.
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top hat or top-hat (sometimes also known by the nickname "topper") is a tall, flat-crowned, broad-brimmed hat worn by men throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries.
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Gaiters are protective clothes or parts.
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Etymology
Gaiter comes from the French Guêtre.On people
- Further information: Spats
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tailor is a person whose occupation is to sew menswear style jackets and the skirts or trousers that go with them.
Although the term dates to the thirteenth century, tailor
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Although the term dates to the thirteenth century, tailor
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duster is a light, loose-fitting coat.
The original dusters were full-length, light-colored canvas or linen coats worn by horsemen to protect their clothing from trail dust. These dusters were typically slit up the back to hip level for ease of wear on horseback.
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The original dusters were full-length, light-colored canvas or linen coats worn by horsemen to protect their clothing from trail dust. These dusters were typically slit up the back to hip level for ease of wear on horseback.
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Artistic Dress movement and its successor, Aesthetic Dress, were fashion trends in nineteenth century clothing.
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Artistic dress
Dante Gabriel Rossetti and other members of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood were conscious archaizers, emulating the work of the "old..... Click the link for more information.
tea gown or tea-gown is a woman's at-home dress of the late 19th to mid-20th centuries characterized by unstructured lines, light fabrics, and frothy or feminine detail.
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- Every one knows that a tea-gown is a hybrid between a wrapper and a ball dress.
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Hair is a filamentous outgrowth of protein, found only on mammals. It projects from the epidermis, though it grows from hair follicles deep in the dermis. Although many other organisms, especially insects, show filamentous outgrowths, these are not considered "hair".
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A fringe (or bangs in the U.S. and Canada) is the front part of the hair, cut to hang or curl over the forehead.
In hairstyling, it can be swept to the side, similar to the side part, except that it does not cover the eyes.
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In hairstyling, it can be swept to the side, similar to the side part, except that it does not cover the eyes.
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Bonnet can refer to:
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- Bonnet (headgear), a kind of headwear
- Hood (vehicle), in British English, the hinged cover of the engine in a motor vehicle, called hood in American English
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A hat is an item of clothing which is worn on the head; a kind of headgear. Hats are differentiated from caps by being more elaborate; hats have a high crown, a brim, or both and are larger than caps.
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riding habit is women's clothing for horseback riding.
Since the mid-17th century, a formal habit for riding sidesaddle usually consisted of:
..... Click the link for more information.
Since the mid-17th century, a formal habit for riding sidesaddle usually consisted of:
- A tailored jacket with a long skirt (sometimes called a petticoat) to match
- A tailored shirt or chemisette
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Passementerie or passementarie is the art of making elaborate trimmings or edgings (in French, passements) of applied braid, gold or silver cord, embroidery, colored silk, or beads for clothing or furnishings.
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A fringe (or bangs in the U.S. and Canada) is the front part of the hair, cut to hang or curl over the forehead.
In hairstyling, it can be swept to the side, similar to the side part, except that it does not cover the eyes.
..... Click the link for more information.
In hairstyling, it can be swept to the side, similar to the side part, except that it does not cover the eyes.
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